Centro

The centre is the part of Itacaré that existed before the surfers arrived, and it still works as a town rather than as a strip. The harbour is here, the market is here, and Rua Pedro Longo runs through the middle of it as a pedestrian street that does restaurants by day and the whole of the town's nightlife after dark.

Staying here means everything is on foot, including the four town beaches, and it means the evening happens outside your door whether you asked for it or not. That is the trade. People who want the town choose it deliberately and people who want quiet regret it by the third night.

It is also the practical base: agencies, boards, buses south, and somewhere open when you land late. What the week sounds like from here is in nights out in Itacaré.